Goat Setup, Care, and Sources

Barn: Room for hay & grain, kidding, feeding, milking

We have a 12x16 loft barn. It has room for 100 bales of hay, a manger, a storage unit where we keep some grain and supplies, a milking stand, and wood pellets for the stall that's attached. We built a little kidding stall in part of it and fill it up with hay in the summer, then by spring they've eaten the hay and we can use it for kidding again. I use the kidding stall to separate kids and/or sick animals when needed. We also have another dog fence area for bucklings and kids when needed. We don't keep bucks yet, but I've seen some great buck setups (see pictures above).

12x16 is a good space for supplies for 2-5 goats. They don't live in it though. We have an attached stall. With more goats you need more space to store hay. I've seen many people have a stall or several shelters and no barn. They get round bales or square bales on trailers and cover them with tarps and pull from them all winter for the goats.

We actually milk in our garage, but we still have a milking stand in the barn for foot trims, giving drenches, feeding yearlings and tattooing. It's really nice to have an extra milking stand in the barn, especially during kidding season when you might need to milk out a doe in the evening for that first week while keeping her near the babies.

The link below is for the milk stand I made. It cost about $145 to buy supplies to make two milk stands in 2021 (it was much more time and cost effective to make two at once). The directions are awesome! The only part my husband did was cut out the neck holes for me.

Milk stand plan: http://www.fiascofarm.com/goats/milkstand.html 

Fencing: 2x4", 4' with electric wire, T-posts and/or wood posts, pallets

Fencing depends on your property, predators, and budget. We have a very steep hill along our fence line, so my husband made a frame-style fence by cutting out grooves in treated 2x4s, and popping in cattle panels cut to the right angle/size. This took almost 3 months of work and was very expensive. The panels pop out when a lot of pressure is put on them, so we're having to add 1x1s around the frame to support them. It looks beautiful, goes up the hill, but doesn't work as well as it could, and the cattle panels are 4x4". Baby goats can stick their heads right out. This is annoying to us since they get their heads stuck at a certain age. It might be a safety concern for those living farther out of the city. 

I really like the 2x4" four foot welded wire fencing, with a line of electric going round the top perimeter. I've seen this style at a couple farms and it looks nice and clean and works great. Along the back stretch of their area, we used 5-foot fencing with wood posts every 16 feet and two T-posts in between each wood post. This looks nice and works well too, and we haven't had moose in our pen. I've seen people use just hot wire fencing for goats, but this is a little more challenging to maintain. Another option is pallets. You can hammer metal rebar into the ground, huck the pallet over it, and then screw the pallets together (see pictures above). This actually doesn't look too bad, but won't last as long, and might cause leg injuries.

Keep the manger, minerals, & animals out of the weather

Here's advice from Kelly Dellar at Wasilla Lights Farm:
Housing large enough to have hay, minerals & water 24/7 is essential. Housing needs to be dry, have good air circulation without being drafty, have protection from the ground moisture with either wood floors or black rubber matting, be cleaned out more than occasionally, have dry, warm bedding free from mold and moisture, and some light. Some people use a moving blanket to cover the goat doorway in stormy, windy weather, and it's important to have something to close them in completely when weather is severe. Pneumonia and lung issues can be a serous and not so uncommon issue in goats. Proper housing is essential to maintain happy, healthy goats. A shop broom head on the wall helps them groom themselves.

Stall attached to the barn makes it easy to do farm chores in winter
When we got our barn, we cut out the side and built an 8x8' attached pole-barn style stall. The roof is a little too low to make cleaning enjoyable, so I would make sure whatever you have is easily walkable. The goat entrance is about 2x3' and we use a piece of plywood secured with a hay bale or tire to block it during severe weather. Our manger is in the barn so I can fill it easily without going into the stall. The goats have a simple two-part tray for kelp and minerals, and a heated water bucket is hung on the stall wall during the winter. I've seen PVC pipes with an U-bend at the bottom to hold kelp, minerals, salts and/or baking soda. I want to do this eventually!  

A table or ledge is a great thing to add to your shelter. Goats love sleeping off the ground, and when it gets really cold, they can cuddle underneath. We have a dog igloo in our stall that they use in freezing temps. The kids love it too. It also acts as an obstacle so if goats are fighting they can run around it or jump on top of it to get away.

Wood pellets and wasted hay make great bedding
I "spot clean" by moving clean wasted hay over any piles of poo so animals don't have direct contact with it. I clean the stall about every two weeks in the summer, and we use the deep litter method in winter. My husband cleans it out in winter about 2 times (when it starts to smell), and then in the spring before new kids arrive. One time after cleaning we dusted with a bit of diatomaceous earth to kill bugs before we put a new layer of wood pellets down. I don't know if it helped or not.

We don't have any protection for our wood floor that goes into the goat stall, so the thick plywood gets soaked. The wood pellets help soak up this moisture, but we want to cover it with some kind of mat that won't make the goats slip (they have to jump onto the wood platform from the ground). I added a little ramp for pregnant goats and young kids who can't make the leap. Just adjusting our setup as I go.

Chain link dog runs with tarps in less windy areas can work

One farm I visited in Anchorage had 3 different tarped dog runs sitting in a large fenced "common" area. Once the does and kids were locked up for the night, the bucks were let out to run around. We could never do this in Palmer because the wind would rip the tarp off real quick, but it looked like a pretty inexpensive, efficient way to house a lot of goats. We've used it this summer with our bucklings. They have a dog igloo to snuggle in at night.

Feeders - Feed bags, PVC pipe, extra fencing
Depending on goat personalities, it's nice to have two separate feeding areas. An equestrian feed bag works great for this. I hang mine on the wall on the other side of the stall in winter, and throw it over a fence post outside in summer when it's not raining. There are many manger designs (see pictures above) but I love the gentleness of the PVC pipes stuffed through holes at 1.5" intervals. It was easy and inexpensive to build. Some of my spacing is off, so the goats are shoving their heads in between - this is something you want to avoid if the goats aren't getting along and try to butt each other while their heads are stuck in a feeder. Make sure whatever kind of system you use is tall enough or has a lid so that kids can't jump inside and get stuck. I've seen farms just use extra fencing to block off the hay and the goats just eat from that. They can get their nose hairs rubbed off on the rough fencing, but it still works great!

See more about shelters at this website:
https://www.goatworld.com/articles/shelters/

Goat coats:
http://goatcoatshop.com/
So far I've used some old fleece coats - front feet through the sleeves, rolled up or cut to size, zipped on the back on my older lactating doe and my yearling. My two-year old didn't need a coat. 

Hay, Kelp, Loose Minerals, Vitamins & Copper, Grain

Free-choice hay, 1 bale a week for 1 goat (4lbs per day per goat)
Brome, Timothy or a mix is great. Local hay works great (see Local Sources at the bottom of the page). Alfalfa is high in calcium and good in small amounts for 0-1 years and for lactating does. The research I've seen so far is that too much Alfalfa during pregnancy and especially in the last few months results in longer, harder labors because the goat's body is not processing calcium correctly. Alfalfa pellets work great too with less waste. Break them into small pieces for kids to prevent choking. I've heard that second cut hay is better for goats. Goats like leafy hay and will waste the stems. 

Kelp, Loose Minerals, Baking Soda, Vitamins, and Copper/Selenium OR Mineral Buffet
Goats need loose minerals always available (we've used Manna Pro Goat Minerals from Branded Feed and Tack in Wasilla on Seward Meridian, Amazon, or Caprine Supply - but they don't seem to eat much of it).

We switched to the Mineral Buffet and we get our minerals from Little Avalon Farm. We make bulk orders so just contact me if you want in on the bulk order and it makes it less expensive for each person! My goats' coats are soft and amazing on this mineral buffet, and the kids were super healthy and strong and dams recovered so well from birth. I only gave one dose of replamin, no copper and no selenium to the goats during their pregnancies. I love the mineral buffet! Mineral Buffet information. I got my mineral boxes from Amazon: Bird Plastic Feeder Boxes. See pictures of setup below. 

I have kelp free-choice as well. Others only offer kelp, then take it away, because kelp is very expensive and the goats prefer it to their minerals. It probably depends on the number of animals you have. One 50lb bag of kelp ($90 @ Alaska Farm Supply) lasted me about two years with 2 goats free choice.

Baking soda is great to help reset the rumen. I give it as a drench (a teaspoon in water) to my does who have no appetite after kidding, and offer it loose every time there's a change in feed (new hay, springtime greens, etc.). Never offer baking soda and vinegar at the same time.

I don't give Replamin anymore because I'm on the mineral buffet. Replamin contains vitamins A, D, and E, B12, Copper, selenium, and zinc. I started at 7-10 months old. I give 1cc to kids and work up to about 5cc for an adult mini. I give this monthly through the winter (local hay loses Vitamin A around January) and every-other month during the summer. (Never give the same month as copper/selenium).

Goats need a copper bolus if they're not on the mineral buffet. I start when they are 6 months old with 4 grams and give the bolus every 6 months. Dose is approximately 1g per 22 lbs. I work up to 6 grams by 2-years of age. It has even been proven to help reduce stomach/barber pole worms. Watch for copper deficiency signs: “fish tale,” rough coat, etc. Always schedule selenium to be given at the same time as copper since the two work together. I start with 1cc and work up to 4cc of selenium. (Skip Replamin the month you give copper/selenium). 

Grain for 0-1 year olds, pregnant does, does in milk, & bucks in rut
Kids will start nibbling their mommy's grain at about one week. At two months old, I give 1⁄4 cup grain, twice a day, increasing to 1⁄2 cup twice a day. Increase to 1 cup twice a day by winter. At max, feed 1.5% body weight. For reference, 3 cups of most feed mixes is approximately 1 pound. 1 cup twice a day is probably max unless body condition shows a need for more nutrition. At weaning, add a few alfalfa pellets (maybe 1⁄4 cup a day each) into the grain ration to provide calcium while kids are growing - give up to ½ cup a day for the first year.

Pregnant does can get grain depending on their age and weight. For a pregnant yearling you need to be careful to not overfeed her as it may grow a singleton too large to pass. A skinnier doe might need grain the entire pregnancy to maintain weight, while a 2-year old who's fat needs little to no grain. A good rule of thumb is to slowly wean off grain when pregnant and start grain up again slowly one or two months before kidding, up to 1 or 2 cups each meal to get ready for when they're in milk. Once a doe has kidded, you can add milk ration. I use Alaska Mill and Feed non-soy, non-corn Goat Milk Ration as much as they want. About 3 cups AM and PM. (This is not Round-Up free and I may try to wean them off of it.)

Wethers and bucks need a 2:1 ratio between calcium and phosphorus. Purina Goat Chow, Alaska Farm Supply 16% Goat Ration made in Canada (likely with Round Up), and Modesto Milling Organic Goat Dairy from California (Animal Food Warehouse) and Scratch and Peck Organic Goat Feed have the right ratio. Bucks can get a small handful of alfalfa pellets while they are in the rut and grain if needed. 

Fresh water morning and night

I use small buckets because I'm small and I don't have that many goats. I put the buckets in old tires so they don't get tipped over. I change out the water morning and night. We often put a splash of raw apple cider vinegar in the water, which makes the pH friendly for goats' rumens (but not if we're offering baking soda at the same time). For winter, we put the tire/bucket in the stall with them and stuff a bunch of straw around the bucket in the tire. This insulates it all fall to about December - I'd say to about 15 degrees or so. Then we use the heated water buckets hung on the wall so that water is always available to drink. I add a tiny bit of molasses to the water in winter to help them drink more. Goats like warm water in cold weather, and cold water in warm weather. When it's really hot you can add electrolytes to the water to keep them hydrated. 

Goat Sources

Most of these sources were taken by permission from Kelly Dellar's Wasilla Lights Farm website.

Hay

• Hofmann Lawn and Landscaping: Brome, Timothy and local grass mix. They use compost on the fields. Delivery available. $26ish/bale 2023. FB Page here. 
• Ray and Gerald DeVillbiss in Palmer: 907-414-1017 (square bales) Pick up from the field; delivery may be available. $16/bale off the field 2023
• Pioneer Equipment (round bales) in the Butte area: 907-745-3071
• Wayne Brost, Point Mackenzi, 907-373-7671
• Bud Frohling, Spring Creek Ranch, Palmer, 907-746-5797 
• Micah Helkenn, Delta Hay, 907-803-0336 (I got some from Animal Food Warehouse which stocks it year around. It was pretty brown and the goats don't really like it that much! Might just be my goats though!)
• Branded Feed & Tack or M Bar D in Wasilla on Seward Meridian has outside Timothy, orchard grass and alfalfa squares, super compressed (saves space!) It's $18/bale if you get a pallet of alfalfa. 
• Alaska Farm Supply in Palmer has Washington Timothy and orchard grass. They can deliver as well.
• Randy Speckles (907) 322-8038. Brome delivered to the Valley for $14.50 a bale. Only one cutting delivered in October. (2023)

Anemia, worms, & poisonous plants

How to monitor anemia and worm load in your goats -

Link to a great video on FAMACHA Scoring:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15TGB3CmIJc

An edible and poisonous plants listing is here: http://www.fiascofarm.com/goats/poisonousplants.htm 

Note: Some poisonous plant listings include "fireweed" as poisonous. Alaska Fireweed is fine for goats. Lupine, however, is poisonous. 

On-line ordering of supplies

http://www.caprinesupply.com

https://www.valleyvet.com/?ccd=IGO027&gclid=CJrEupa7vM8CFUONfgod- 

https://www.jefferspet.com

For bulk herbs - Land of Havilah Herbals found here: http://landofhavilahfarm.com/loh/landofhavilahherbalsstore/   or 

Mountain Rose Herbs found here: https://www.mountainroseherbs.com  or All About Herbs on the Palmer Wasilla Highway has a lot of herbs available locally (very expensive). Many of these herbs can be grown in your garden or outside the fence (like wormwood). 

Reference books & websites on natural goat care

"Holistic Goat Care: A Comprehensive Guide to Raising Healthy Animals, Preventing Common Ailments, and Troubleshooting Problems" by Gianaclis Caldwell

"The Accessible Pet, Equine and Livestock Herbal" by Katherine A Drovdahl which can be found here http://www.firmeadowllc.com/store or on Amazon. 

"Alternative Treatments for Ruminant Animals" by Paul Dettloff can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/Alternative-Treatments-Ruminant-Animals-Dettloff/dp/1601730128 

Another website with lots of goat information:  http://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/articlesMain.html

A great site to look at when trying to figure out what's wrong with your goat:  www.dawog.net/Goats

Facebook groups

Alaska Miniature Alpine Dairy Goats

Alaska Goat Talk

Alaskan Goat Breeders

Alaskans With Goats

Totally Natural Goats & More

Goat Vet Corner
Alaska Farm and Food

Local veterinarians knowledgeable in goat health

~~~Cherise Neu, DVM, Arctic Equine & Livestock Veterinary, Palmer, Ph: 907-795-5495, Website: arcticequine.com  Dr. Neu came to visit my farm for around $100. 
 

~~~Dr. Brook Wilson, Currently practicing with Dr. Neu at Arctic Equine & Livestock Veterinary Service, 907-795-5495, Website: arcticequine.com. She performed the surgery on Heartthrob to remove his retained testicle. It was a little over $1100. It was $60 to take him for his pre-surgery checkup at the vet. 

~~~ Dr. Teresa Beck, North Star Animal Hospital: 907-746-7387, Website: northstaranimalhospital.com. She performed surgical castration for two of my wethers (for one of my buyers) that went very well. As of 2022 she is forwarding all livestock animals to Arctic Equine & Livestock Veterinary.

~~~Dr. Julie Stafford, 2 Tails Veterinary Services, LLC, A mobile veterinary service based in the Matsu Valley, Website:  2tailsvet.com

~~~Sabrieta Holland DVM, Might not take new clients right now unless you want to artificially inseminate your goat.  

Other veterinarian possibilities: 

~~~Dr. Julie Grohs, AK Equine & Small Animal Hosp. (Chugiak):  907-688-9303

~~~Dr. Jackie Frederickson (Anchorage on the Hillside) for exotics, pigs, & chickens: 907-290-3877.

Out of state genetics in Alaska Mini-Alpine herds

Mamm-Key Alpine Diary goats: http://mammkey.com/
(I have these guys in Cassiopea's line!)

Hanson's Hideaway Farm - Nigerian Dwarf Goats
https://www.facebook.com/Hansons.Hideaway.Farm/
https://www.hansonshideaway.com/

​Debra Lucero at Anatevka Farms in the Butte area shipped a doeling and buckling from this farm in 2022.

Redwood Hills
Rocky Mnt High - 

I'm sure there are other herd genetics up here that might end up in our Alaska Mini-Alpines - I'll add them as I find out! :)